Muztagh Ata, also known as Muztagata, is a majestic mountain located in the far reaches of Western China, standing as the second-highest peak in the range that forms the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. This imposing peak, with its Uyghur name meaning “ice-mountain-father,” is a formidable challenge for mountaineers, yet it offers a unique blend of accessibility and allure.
Muztagh Ata occupies a strategic position, lying just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak in the region. It is nestled in a somewhat isolated range, set apart from the primary Kunlun chain by the sprawling Yarkand River valley. This geographical peculiarity leads many to classify it as part of the “Eastern Pamirs.” To the north and east of this mountainous group, vast expanses of the Tarim Basin and the unforgiving Taklamakan Desert stretch out. The Karakoram Highway, a vital transportation artery, runs in close proximity to both Muztagh Ata and Karakul Lake, providing convenient vantage points for observing the mountain’s grandeur. The nearest city to Muztagh Ata is Tashkurgan, a remote town located in the westernmost reaches of China, nestled against the borders of Tajikistan and Pakistan.
The history of Muztagh Ata reaches deep into antiquity, with references in ancient texts. In the Ṛgveda, one of the oldest sacred texts of Hinduism, there’s mention of the mountain Mūjavant, often associated with Muztagh Ata, as a source of the finest soma, a sacred plant used in rituals. The Avesta, an ancient collection of Zoroastrian texts, also alludes to a Muža tribe inhabiting an eastern region with names reminiscent of Vedic culture. This historical resonance is evident in the mountain’s name, standing tall at 7,549 meters as Muzh Tagh Ata in the Kirghiz and Sariqoli (Saka) lands of southwestern Xinjiang.
Muztagh Ata’s first recorded encounter with exploration and climbing took place in 1894 when Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin embarked on a journey to conquer its peaks. However, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that serious attempts were made to summit the mountain. In 1900, Aurel Stein achieved this feat while traversing the Karakorum Pass. Subsequent expeditions in 1900, 1904, and 1947 followed, with notable attempts by renowned mountaineers such as Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. Despite their determination, these adventurers were thwarted by the mountain’s unforgiving cold and deep snow.
The Triumph of 1956
The first successful ascent of Muztagh Ata took place in 1956, marking a significant milestone in mountaineering history. A large team comprised of Chinese and Soviet climbers, led by E.A. Beletskiy, charted a route via the west ridge. This path, which is now considered the standard route, has since witnessed numerous ascents.
Since that historic first ascent, Muztagh Ata has continued to attract climbers from around the world. In 1980, an American expedition led by Ned Gillette achieved a remarkable feat by making the first ski ascent and descent of the standard route, setting a new benchmark in high-altitude skiing. The mountain’s challenges and allure prompted climbers to explore alternative routes. In 2000, a team successfully conquered the much more demanding south-east ridge, while in 2005, a secondary route on the west side of the mountain was opened, providing mountaineers with additional options for exploration.
One of the most noteworthy achievements in recent years was the solo and alpine-style ascent by Swedish climber Anneli Wester in 2011. She not only conquered the peak but also camped on the summit overnight, underlining the indomitable spirit and courage of mountaineers who seek to conquer the “Ice-Mountain-Father.”
Muztagh Ata, with its rich history, challenging routes, and breathtaking beauty, continues to captivate adventurers from around the world. As climbers push the boundaries of human achievement, this majestic peak stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of exploration and conquest.