Chogolisa is a majestic peak located in the Karakoram range of the Himalayas, near the border of Pakistan and India. It is a popular destination for mountaineers due to its impressive height and stunning views. Standing at 7,668 meters, Chogolisa is known for its steep ridges and technical climbing routes.
1st Summit to Chogolisa
The first attempt to climb Chogolisa was made by an American expedition in 1958. The team was led by Nick Clinch and included experienced mountaineers such as Paul Petzoldt and Barry Corbet. Despite their efforts, the team was unable to reach the summit and was forced to turn back due to bad weather.
It wasn’t until 1975 that the mountain was successfully climbed. The team consisted of an Austrian and a Pakistani climber, Hermann Buhl and Muhammad Bashir respectively. The two men took on the daunting challenge of climbing the peak’s northeast spur, which had never been attempted before. After several days of climbing, they reached the summit on July 3, 1975.
Chogolisa Difficulty Level
The northeast spur route is still considered to be one of the most difficult and dangerous routes to the summit of Chogolisa. The route involves steep ice and rock climbing, with the added challenge of dealing with unpredictable weather conditions.
In addition to the northeast spur, there are several other routes that can be taken to reach the summit of the peak. One of the most popular routes is the south-southeast ridge, which was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1986. This route is less technical than the northeast spur but still requires a high level of skill and experience.
Detailed Route from Islamabad to Chogolisa
- Drive from Islamabad to Chillas
- Drive from Chillas to Skardu (alternatively, direct flight to Skardu may be taken)
- Drive from Skardu to Jhola Camp
- Trek from Jhola to Paiyu
- Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas
- Trek from Urdukas to Goro-II
- Trek from Goro-II to Concordia
- Trek from Concordia to Base Camp Chogolisa
Despite its height and technical challenges, Chogolisa continues to attract mountaineers from around the world. Its stunning views of the Karakoram range and the surrounding landscape make it a truly unforgettable experience for those who are up for the challenge.
However, climbing Chogolisa is not without its risks. The peak is located in a remote area, and the weather can be unpredictable and severe. In addition, the high altitude can cause altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening if not treated promptly.
Overall, Chogolisa is a true gem of the Himalayas and a must-visit destination for any experienced mountaineer looking for a challenge. Its stunning beauty and technical challenges make it a true test of skill and endurance, and a reminder of the awe-inspiring power of nature.