Ghenta Peak, also known as Gentha Kangri, is a mountain located in the Siachen Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,090 meters (23,261 feet), it is one of the highest peaks in the Karakoram range and the world.
Ghenta Mountain is part of a group of peaks that are collectively known as the Saltoro Mountains. These mountains are located in the Siachen Glacier region and are popular among climbers for their challenging climbs and stunning views.
The first successful ascent of the Peak was made in 1961 by a Japanese expedition team. The team, which was led by Y. Takagi, climbed the peak via the southeast ridge.
Since then, Ghenta Peak has been climbed by several expeditions from different countries, including the United States, Russia, Italy, Spain, and Pakistan. The mountain’s southeast ridge is the most popular route for climbers, although there have been successful ascents made via other routes as well.
Ghenta Peak Route
Climbing Ghenta Peak is a challenging feat that requires a high level of physical fitness and mountaineering skills. The route to the summit involves steep slopes, exposed ridges, and difficult technical sections that require climbers to use ropes, ice axes, and crampons.
Best Time to Climb Ghenta Peak
The best time to climb the Peak is during the summer months, from June to August when the weather is relatively stable and the snow conditions are favorable. However, climbers should be prepared for sudden weather changes and snowstorms, which can occur at any time of the year in the Karakoram range.
Despite the challenges, Ghenta Peak continues to attract climbers from around the world who are looking for a unique and challenging mountaineering experience. With its stunning views, rich history, and rugged terrain, it is no wonder that this peak is considered one of the crown jewels of the Karakoram range.