Buni Zom is a beautiful and challenging peak located in the Hindu Kush range of Northern Pakistan. It offers mountaineers and trekkers a unique opportunity to explore the remote and beautiful areas of the region. Whether you choose to climb to the summit or trek to the base camp, Buni Zom is sure to leave you with unforgettable memories of the stunning landscapes and friendly local people.
Buni Zom mountain, located in the KP region of Pakistan near Chitral city, is a highly unexplored and challenging mountain with limited ascents. Here’s some more information about the mountain and how to plan an expedition:
Location of Buni Zom Peak
Buni Zom is a majestic peak located in the Chitral District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province in Northern Pakistan. It is one of the highest peaks in the Hindu Kush mountain range, standing at an elevation of 6,611 meters (21,690 feet). Buni Zom is a popular destination for mountaineers due to its challenging terrain and stunning views. In this article, we’ll explore the history, geography, and climbing routes of Buni Zom.
History and Geography of Buni:
Buni Zom is located in the Hindu Kush mountain range, which stretches from central Afghanistan to Northern Pakistan. The peak was first climbed in 1957 by a New Zealand expedition team led by W.K. Berry and C.H. Tynadle. The mountain is located on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan and is a part of the Chiantar glacier.
Buni Zom has only been climbed three times, with a total of seven individuals reaching the summit. The first ascent was made in 1957 by a two-party New Zealand expedition led by W.K. Berry and C.H. Tynadle.. They approached the mountain from the east, crossing the Gordoghan Zom glacier, ascending the north face of Buni Zom North, descending to the north col, and finally climbing the north ridge of the Main peak.
The second ascent was in August 1975 by a Japanese expedition, where three members summited via the South face and following the south-west ridge. The third and most recent ascent was in 1979 by two American climbers, who climbed the Southwest ridge.
The mountain is surrounded by several other significant peaks, including Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush mountain range. The Buni Glacier lies to the north of the peak, and it is a significant source of the Mastuj River.
There are several climbing routes to the summit of Buni Zom. The most popular route is the southeast ridge, which starts from the Buni Zom glacier. The route is challenging and requires a high level of technical climbing skills.
The ascent to the summit is gradual, with several steep sections and exposed ridges. The final ascent to the summit is steep and requires the use of fixed ropes. The views from the summit are breathtaking, with stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
Trekking to Buni Zom:
Buni Zom is also a popular trekking destination. The trek to the base camp of Buni Zom takes you through some of the most beautiful and remote areas of the Hindu Kush range. The trek starts from the village of Mastuj and takes approximately five days to reach the base camp.
The trek passes through several remote villages, beautiful meadows, and forests, and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4,000 meters (13,123 feet) and provides stunning views of the Buni Zom Glacier.
Getting to the Buni Zom:
The starting point for climbing Buni Zom is Harchin village, which is approximately 140 km away from Chitral on the way to Gilgit. To reach Harchin, you can take a jeep from Mastuj, which is about 20 km from the village. From Harchin (altitude 2800m), you’ll need to trek about 14 km to reach the Base Camp.
The trek to Base Camp includes crossing Raman village on the other side of the Mastuj river and passing through the last village named Phargam. To reach Base Camp, you will have to cross the Phargam High Pass (5045m). The Base Camp is situated in the Kulakmali area at an altitude of 3950m. The trek to Base Camp can take one full day or two days, and porters usually need two days for this journey.
Permits and Red Tape:
As Buni Zom is a peak higher than 6500 meters in Pakistan, climbing permits are required for any expedition. It is essential to obtain these permits about 3 months before the planned expedition. You can contact the Ministry of Minorities, Culture, Sports, Tourism, and Youth Affairs of Pakistan for the necessary permits.
The cost of the permit is around $3000 for a 7-member expedition. Additionally, a local permit is required for the Chitral region, which can be obtained easily from the Chitral police station without any fees. This is a registration requirement for all tourists visiting Chitral.
Best time to Climb Buni Zom:
The best climbing period for Buni Zom is not fixed and varies from year to year. However, based on the previous ascents, August seems to be a favorable month for climbing. The climbing attempts in the past have also been made in June-July, but this period tends to have a lot of snow.
Camping in Buni Zom
There are no special permits required for camping, and the campsites are free to use during the expedition.